
At another bed, the voice of a woman,
"If you're not going to talk to me,
I'm going home." The elderly man
cowers beneath the bedclothes
like a ferret.
The woman rises to leave.
"He'll only talk to me in French.
He knows I can't understand a word he says."
The man opens one eye and looks at his wife.
She tells us she is paralysed down one side
only has one leg and a missing
kneecap on the other leg. "He knows
how hard it is for me to get here.
Look at him. I'm going home."
We return to my friend's father.
"You look so much fitter," we tell him.
"Next time we see you will be at home."
The old man presses our hands with his,
the gnarled stumps of his fingers
swollen and disfigured.
We say farewell and step
into the autumn sunshine, remarking
on the number of butterflies there are
at this time of the year
and how the leaves are changing colour.
We make our way up the grand staircase and slip behind the sad ruins of the once magnificent church and hide on either side of the fortified doorway. I press hard against a battle-scarred wall where strange grasses grip the bricks and scarlet bougainvillea scrambles unchecked above me. A gecko is sunning itself close to me. I hope scorpions and snakes aren't lurking in the crevices.
After a minute or two we cautiously rejoin the path and are about to take a different direction when an urgent voice rings through the air. "Excuse me, madams! It is holiday. No worries!"
When half a dozen youths materialise out of the bushes and encircle us, our hearts sink. Encouraged by the others, the lead youth steps forward importantly and hands us a stream of red firecrackers. "For you. Holiday. New Year." My friend and I look at each' other. It is a stark choice. We take the fireworks and wait while the boy lights them for us. "We love them!" we chorus and with a satisfied nod, they turn and leave us.